Key Takeaways
- Winter is coming. Drain and shut off outdoor water before the first hard freeze to prevent ice expansion that can crack pipes and lead to expensive water damage.
- Find the indoor shutoff valve explicitly, remove and completely drain hoses, and then open the outdoor faucet to blow out trapped water and relieve pressure.
- Take off the bleed cap or drain plug on the indoor shutoff and catch the residual water. Listen for drips to make sure it’s not leaking someplace hidden.
- Put on insulation. Slap on some insulated faucet covers and wrap the exposed pipes to further reduce the risk of freezing. Label any shutoffs for quicker winterizing next time.
- Don’t make rookie errors like leaving hoses hooked up, skipping insulation, or waiting too late with this checklist and annual reminder.
- Take your winter prep spigots one step further by draining your sprinkler lines, looking for backflow preventers, and checking your outdoor plumbing throughout the winter.
Draining takes the water out of spigots and attached hoses, reducing the potential for ice damage to valves and walls.
It’s as simple as shutting off the indoor shutoff, opening the faucet and removing hoses.
For frost-free spigots, ensure internal drain passages function.
The meat details tools, steps, and pitfalls.
The Frozen Threat
Freezing air hands any water caught at hand into a space-expanding solid. When outdoor faucets and the brief stretches of pipe that service them aren’t drained, ice sets in and expands. That expansion pushes against pipe walls and joints, resulting in cracks or even full bursts.
The warm-to-cold transition frequently surprises homeowners, and one frozen spigot has the potential to trigger a domino effect of destruction that rears its head weeks later.
Pipe Damage
Frozen water in pipes generates enormous pressure. Ice creates a plug and pressure builds between it and a closed valve. Metal or plastic can only stretch so much before it snaps.
Crazed pipes can drip in walls and below siding! Moisture concealed behind finishes results in rot, damaged insulation, and twisted framing well before anyone observes a wet floor.
In most instances, the break happens when pipes freeze and the actual damage shows up during the thaw as water being held back erupts out. Pipe bursts tend to fly under the radar until thawing causes flooding.
That explosion can pour hundreds of litres into a wall cavity or under floors in a matter of minutes. Draining before freezing prevents ice plugs and keeps lines clear of blockage and block-induced localized stress that leads to breaks.
Foundation Risks
Dripping outdoor faucets near the foundation can erode supporting soil. The freeze-thaw threat once again, repeated freeze-thaw cycles move soil and undermine footings, which stresses masonry and concrete.
Water seepage from ruptured supply lines can find its way into basements and crack foundation walls or floors. Those cracks let in more water and cold, compounding insulation and energy losses.
Soggy conditions around the foundation of a home promote mold and mildew growth in crawlspaces and basements. That results in indoor air quality issues and increased remediation expenses.
Check around outside faucets for pools, soft ground or frost heave as an initial indicator of a problem.
Hidden Costs
Emergency plumbing dispatches and water-damage restoration are pretty typical post-winter pipe-bursting expenses. One burst line can lead to thousands in repair bills, new drywall, and replaced flooring.
Unperceived leaks send water bills spiraling up over weeks or months. Broken outdoor spigots and supply lines can drip as you leave town and meters continue to spin.
Insurers will hike premiums or deny claims if standard winterization is neglected. Proper maintenance can double or triple fixture life, while neglect will absolutely cut it and drive premature fixture replacement.
Draining lines before the first freeze is a cheap and efficient preventative measure. Spray with an insulation kit or add a quick Styrofoam or cloth cover to faucets. Repair leaks prior to freezing to maintain dry, intact pipes.
The Draining Process
Draining outside faucets in preparation for winter avoids freeze damage by purging water from spigots and supply lines. Perform this in early to mid-fall, prior to the first hard freeze. Here is a straightforward outline, with detailed substeps afterward.
- Close the indoor valve that feeds the outside spigot.
- Disconnect and drain all hoses; store them indoors.
- Open the outdoor faucet fully to let water escape.
- Find and open the bleeder cap or drain plug on the indoor valve to release trapped water.
- Open the outdoor faucet through winter and fit insulated covers.
- Wipe off and check for leaks. Label shutoff valves and checklist.
1. Locate Shutoff
Locate the inside shutoff valve that controls the outside tap. It’s typically in a utility room, basement, or crawl space. Turn the valve clockwise until it’s completely closed to shut off water to the outside.
If you have multiple exterior faucets, test for extra valves and mark each one for future seasons so you’ll save time next fall. Labeling assists family members or maintenance staff so they know which valves to open during sudden cold snaps.
2. Disconnect Hoses
Disconnect hoses from any and all outside spigots. Hoses that are left connected trap water that can back up into the faucet and freeze. Drain each hose thoroughly by holding one end up and letting the water run out.
Coil them up and store them in a garage or shed. Check your fittings for wear or leaks and replace washers or damaged parts as necessary to prevent spring surprises.
3. Open Faucet
Once the indoor valve is closed, rotate the outdoor handle counterclockwise to the on position to drain the spigot and allow air into the line. Open the faucet completely during winter so any residual water and pressure can be released.
To preserve the ground near your foundation, leave a small bucket under the spigot while draining to catch residual water. There might be a quick hissing sound afterward, like air entering the line, confirming that it’s draining properly.
4. Drain Inside
Find the bleeder cap, typically a 3/8″ round brass cap, or drain plug on the side of the supply valve and take it off to discharge water. Do not close the bleeder cap immediately after draining; leave it open for a couple of seconds to let air come into the pipes.
Take a towel or small bucket to catch residual water and inspect for drips or leaks around shutoff and faucet connections. Dry wipe to prevent moisture accumulation and mold.
5. Insulate Outside
Put insulated covers on faucets and wrap outdoor pipes with foam sleeves or towels, using weatherproof tape to tie off and prevent drafts. Correct insulation provides an additional shield in severe cold and lowers the risk of freezing if small amounts of water are left.
Take insulation off in spring and check before reuse.
Essential Tools
Winterize outdoor faucets to safeguard pipes and taps from freeze damage. Collect the proper tools and make the job quick and certain.
- Wrench — An elementary adjustable wrench or pipe wrench is required to shut off outside water supply valves that are stuck or rusted. Bring the wrench to shut off an external isolation valve or to loosen fittings if you need to disconnect a hose bibb. Select a wrench that feels good in your hand and has a jaw size suitable for typical valve nuts. A 20 to 25 cm adjustable wrench should cover most of your requirements.
- Garden hose — Detach and store any garden hose in a dry location to prevent trapped water from freezing and expanding. Once you’ve turned off the supply, leave the hose off the spigot and drain it by running it downhill or draining it over a railing. For tiny yards, a hose folded on a shelf is fine. For bigger hoses, hang them on a reel in a shed.
- Hose bibb cover or insulated faucet cover — A hose bibb cover or insulated faucet cover protects the outside spigot from frost and wind. Opt for rigid foam or insulated vinyl covers that hug and seal with integrated straps. Fit them once the spout is drained and the tap is turned. For exposed or windy locations, consider a double layer: pipe insulation beneath a hard shell cover.
- Pipe insulation — Foam pipe sleeves, self-sealing tape and fiberglass wrap protect short runs and exposed pieces of pipe near the faucet. Just measure your pipe diameter and purchase sleeves to match. For gaps or irregular shapes, self-sealing tape can be used to bridge joints. Insulate from the shutoff valve toward the faucet for complete coverage.
- 5-gallon bucket — Catch water during drain steps or collect water from a compressed drain using a 5-gallon (about 20-litre) bucket. Position the bucket beneath the spigot as you crack open the faucet to purge any residual water. The bucket is great for flushing debris or rinsing tools after the work.
- Flashlight — Maintain a trusty handheld flashlight to locate indoor shutoff valves in dark basements or crawl spaces. A headlamp frees both hands. After you find them, mark valve locations with tape or a tag so future access is quicker.
- Checklist and labels — Create a simple checklist of tools and steps to use each fall: wrench, hose, covers, insulation, bucket, flashlight, shutoff valve, and drain time. Identify shutoff valves and write the date you winterized each faucet. This saves time for the new season and reduces errors for the previous.
- Patience and timing are essential. Drain faucets in early to mid-fall, before frost. Open taps all the way, letting residual water drip, which may take a few minutes. Make sure no water trickles from hose threads. Then install cover and insulation.
Faucet Types
There are two primary types of outdoor faucets with varied designs and winter requirements. Find out what kind you have before you begin any drain work. Confirm the valve location, stem length, and any labels or diagrams on the faucet or in the homeowner manual to verify the model.
If you’re not sure, check for a shutoff valve inside near the wall or crawlspace. Some systems have separate indoor and outdoor supply valves you must close to isolate the line.
Standard Faucets
Standard outdoor faucets feature a straightforward valve that resides close to the exterior wall and is subject to outside temperatures. These faucets are prevalent on older homes and on properties where price was a consideration when the plumbing was installed.
Close the interior supply valve that services the exterior spigot initially. Then turn on the outside faucet to drain water from the valve and short piece of pipe outside. If you have a distinct indoor shutoff for your outdoor supply, close it and open the exterior tap to relieve pressure and drain the line.
Conventional faucets are particularly susceptible to freezing since water can be retained in the exposed valve or stub pipe. Don’t forget to insulate the faucet and the little bit of exposed pipe with foam covers or insulating wrap.
After draining and insulating, test for leaks or slow drips. Even a mini leak means water is still inside and can freeze. Fix those drips before the deep freeze.
Try to do this work in early to mid-fall, before the deep freeze sets in. For faucets that are constantly giving you trouble, replace standard faucets with frost-free models to reduce the risk of bursting pipes.
Frost-Proof Faucets
Frost-proof or frost-free faucets utilize a long stem such that the shutoff seat sits a few centimeters inside the heated wall cavity. That position holds the valve in a warmer position and helps keep water from freezing inside the faucet in winter.
Disconnect hoses and close the inside shutoff that feeds the outside faucet. Leave the handle in the open position after turning off the supply. This allows any remaining water to drain from the long stem and avoids pockets of water being trapped.
Even frost-proof versions gain from an insulated cover in extreme cold or snow to minimize exposure to wind and ice. While more resistant to freezing, frost-proof faucets still need to be checked.
See that the long stem is installed properly and not bent, that the shutoff seat is sealing properly and inspect for wear or corrosion around packing nuts or wall seals. Utilize manufacturer stickers or schematics to confirm proper installation and adhere to any model-specific winterization steps.
Add faucet protection kits or insulated covers for an extra layer of security in frigid environments.
Common Mistakes
Drain outdoor faucets before winter to keep freeze damage, leaks, and costly repairs at bay. Here are common mistakes to avoid and actionable advice to correct them. Make a quick checklist and verify every valve and connection before the temperatures go down.
- Leaving garden hoses attached to outdoor faucets
- Failing to shut off the exterior water supply at the shut-off valve.
- Not fully draining or opening the spigot after turning off the supply.
- Miss #9: Forgetting about insulation or hose bib covers on exposed faucets and pipes
- Putting it off until after the first freeze or early November in cold areas.
- Forgetting or failing to label hose storage, breaking or backflow.
- Forgetting to find the outside water shut-off valve in advance.
- Taking for granted a trickle of water is “oh it’s no big deal” in the winter.
Forgetting Hoses
Leaving hoses connected allows water to be trapped in the faucet and raises the risk of freezing. Frozen water expands and may burst the spigot or pipe. Unhook hoses, drain completely, and store in a frost-free location.
Neglected hoses backfill with backflow that stresses the faucet and can cause leaks or a burst connection. Label hose storage spots so you know where to put each hose in the spring. The wrong storage can render hoses brittle, kinked or unusable the next season.
A quick tag or photo on your phone will save time and waste.
Skipping Insulation
Not insulating outdoor faucets and exposed pipes is just asking for a frozen pipe or two during those random cold snaps. Use insulated covers or foam sleeves on hose bibbs and wrap any exposed copper or plastic pipe.
Uninsulated parts tend to crack and leak to walls, basements or foundation areas. Put insulation on your annual winter to-do list and check covers for wear prior to the frost. Foam covers are affordable and reusable.
They minimize the risk of frozen water that results in expensive plumbing jobs.
Wrong Timing
To prevent damage from freezing, outdoor faucets should be drained before the first hard freeze or by early November in colder regions. Waiting too long increases the likelihood of frozen water and burst pipes, leading to flooded basements or structural damage.
Watch weather reports for temperature plunges and make an annual alert to winterize. If you can’t identify the exterior shut-off valve today, determine where it is long before cold weather arrives.
Failure to locate or shut off the supply in a timely manner is a frequent culprit in winter plumbing breakage.
Beyond The Faucet
Winterizing your outdoor plumbing means more than shutting off one spigot. Check each outdoor water connection and shutoff to prevent freeze damage, prevent pipe bursts, and save on repairs. Here’s a rapid-fire rundown of the usual suspects that require your concern prior to cold weather setting in.
- Hose bibbs and spigots
- In-ground and above-ground sprinkler lines and heads
- Backflow preventers and pressure-reducing valves
- Exterior shut-off valves and isolation valves
- Garden hoses, reels, and watering accessories
- Outdoor water features (fountains, ponds, heated bird baths)
- Main shut-off valve when no exterior isolation exists
Sprinkler Systems
Turn off the sprinkler supply valve well ahead of the first hard frost, then drain lines to eliminate water standing in pipes which may expand and split. Blow out sprinkler lines with compressed air. Use the system manufacturer’s recommended pressure, which is typically under 80 psi, and go zone by zone to avoid damaging heads.
For tiny systems, a simple manual drain might suffice, but for big rigs, renting an air compressor makes the work quick and complete. Out of sight, out of mind – right? No way! Inspect backflow preventers and check valves for cracks or leaks and drain those as well.
Backflow devices have trapped water that freezes, so if winterization instructions permit, remove and store the unit indoors. Use labels on each control zone and valve so spring startup is speedy and safe. Labels come in handy if your system has multiple valves or you have an older home with quirky valve layouts.
Hose Care
Drain hoses thoroughly, coil loosely and store off the ground in a dry protected location like a garage or shed. Keep hoses indoors. Snow, ice and UV can do a number on garden hoses stored outdoors; this prevents the brittle cracking that causes leaks in spring.
Look over each hose for splits, puckering and clogs and clean the ends to eliminate grit that will corrode your threads. Contain hose accessories, such as nozzles, quick connects, and washers, in labeled bins for accessibility. A little time to organize and test fittings now saves time and frustration when watering resumes.
Winter Watch
Walk the property periodically during winter to check spigots, insulated covers and any exposed lines. Watch for drips, ice buildup or low pressure that could indicate a hidden freeze or an under-the-radar leak forming. Early small signs often help avoid big damage.
Have towels and a hair dryer ready to safely thaw small ice. NEVER use open flames. Schedule a comprehensive spring inspection so any winter stress on lines is discovered and repaired ahead of the season of use.
Conclusion
How Draining Your Outdoor Faucets Can Save Your Pipes and Your Money this Winter Follow the drain steps, use the proper tools, and know your faucet type. Turn off the indoor shutoff valve, open the outdoor spigot, drain the vacuum breaker or frost-free portion, and leave the spout open or put a cap on. Grab a wrench, a hairdryer, and a little bucket for those tight spots. Inspect for leaks and loose fittings. Don’t make mistakes like leaving the valve on or beating frozen handles loose.
An example: a simple shutoff inside a basement and an open porch spigot can stop a burst pipe and a repair bill. Do it now while temps stay mild! Test your faucets this week and schedule a pro if a valve won’t shut.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know when to drain outdoor faucets for winter?
Drain outdoor faucets before the temperature falls below 0°C on a sustained basis. Do it after your final use and before the first hard freeze. Taking early action keeps pipes from bursting and avoids expensive repairs.
Do I need to shut off the water supply inside my house?
Yes. Find the interior shut-off valve for each exterior faucet and turn it off. This separates the line and allows draining to be safe and effective.
Can I drain a faucet without special tools?
Yes. Many faucets drain after you shut off the indoor valve and open up the outside spigot. A bucket or towels help. For extra clearance, use an air compressor or hose to blow out residual water.
Should I disconnect garden hoses before draining?
Always disconnect hoses. Leaving a hose attached leaves water trapped inside, and the faucet and pipe can’t drain, which makes them more likely to freeze and burst.
What if my faucet has a vacuum breaker or backflow preventer?
Open the spigot after closing the inside valve and remove or open the anti-siphon device if it is detachable. If not, refer to the device manual or a plumber for guidance to avoid causing damage.
Can I use antifreeze in outdoor faucets?
Do not use automotive antifreeze in drinking water lines. If necessary and compatible with local codes, use RV or non-toxic antifreeze that is specifically for the plumbing.
When should I call a professional plumber?
Call a plumber if you can’t locate the indoor shut-off, the faucet won’t drain, pipes are frozen, or you have intricate backflow devices. Experts can prevent damage and winterize safely.